Conditions, a climbers’ biggest friend and foe

Climbers are ALWAYS talking about conditions. Too hot, too cold, no wind, too moist, too dry, you can literally come up with anything. It seems that conditions are never optimal, and everyone is always complaining about it.

Alex Megos keeps saying that it’s just a bad excuse for not being strong enough, which of course is totally true. When projecting at your limit getting stronger is of course one option, but getting acquainted with the climbing conditions is nonetheless extremely important.

Oliana is a good example why this can be tricky. Asking the locals I was told that ‘Spring is best, because there is wind and shade in the afternoon, and even Summer can be good’. Asking Adam Ondra, he will tell you that he was ‘tricked into coming in Spring, just to find temperatures way too high. Winter for sure is the best’.

So good conditions are not the same for everyone. I felt how good the route can feel like with a winter breeze, but my fingers get numb from the cold, and I have no idea how Adam can climb like that. I also climbed on the route on a 20°C Spring day, where I cannot even do the single moves…

I guess I have two options: Wait for that perfect day where cloud coverage didnˋt heat up the wall, temps are around 10 – 15°C, and the wind is blowing, OR go home, train and come back stronger 😉

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