Well, first touch of the season I should say. Most of the holds on Fight or Flight felt exactly like I remembered them. It’s crazy how body memory can make movements you haven’t done in a year feel so familiar!
I’ve been waiting impatiently to be back in Spain. As most of you will know, I’ve come here with one route in mind: Fight or Flight (FOF) in Oliana. needless to see here: graded 9b. Two weeks will give me ample time for a good fight and hopefully some good conditions.
After a week of driving around the Netherlands visiting family without much climbing action I still feel a bit dull, so I’ve decided to take it easy in the beginning, rather than switching to beast mode on day 1 😉
Arriving to the crag there were quite some familiar faces, and before I knew it I was belaying Seb Bouin sending Pachamama 9a+! It’s great to see someone send (it looked almost effortless) after investing a lot of time in a project. Good vibes right at the start. Going up FOF I was a little nervous on how it would feel, but after a few moves I realized that many of the hard moves actually felt quite ok! Even though I split a tip after 10 moves (here we go again), all moves and most of the sections felt totally fine.
Getting back into a project is all about the small details: the subtleties that make hard moves a little easier; placing the correct tickmarks; remembering the sequencies until you execute all moves automatically. I even changed my beta a little bit, tried some of Chris’ methods (no way for me!) and brushed the top (please don’t make me fall off there!).
Conditions were great, so I gave it one burn, but this ended at the first crux. No beast mode yet… I guess Hulk doesn’t want to come out as often any more compared to when I was 20 😉