First touch!

Well, first touch of the season I should say. Most of the holds on Fight or Flight felt exactly like I remembered them. It’s crazy how body memory can make movements you haven’t done in a year feel so familiar!

I’ve been waiting impatiently to be back in Spain. As most of you will know, I’ve come here with one route in mind: Fight or Flight (FOF) in Oliana. needless to see here: graded 9b. Two weeks will give me ample time for a good fight and hopefully some good conditions.

After a week of driving around the Netherlands visiting family without much climbing action I still feel a bit dull, so I’ve decided to take it easy in the beginning, rather than switching to beast mode on day 1 😉

Arriving to the crag there were quite some familiar faces, and before I knew it I was belaying Seb Bouin sending Pachamama 9a+! It’s great to see someone send (it looked almost effortless) after investing a lot of time in a project. Good vibes right at the start. Going up FOF I was a little nervous on how it would feel, but after a few moves I realized that many of the hard moves actually felt quite ok! Even though I split a tip after 10 moves (here we go again), all moves and most of the sections felt totally fine.

Getting back into a project is all about the small details: the subtleties that make hard moves a little easier; placing the correct tickmarks; remembering the sequencies until you execute all moves automatically. I even changed my beta a little bit, tried some of Chris’ methods (no way for me!) and brushed the top (please don’t make me fall off there!).

Conditions were great, so I gave it one burn, but this ended at the first crux. No beast mode yet… I guess Hulk doesn’t want to come out as often any more compared to when I was 20 😉

Oliana, one of my all time favourite crags

4 thoughts on “First touch!

  1. Dude, nice blog. I think your blog posts would be really cool as short vlogs, maybe more impactful and easier to broadcast as well (?). Fingers crossed that FOF will go down.

    1. Thanks for the input! I thought about it, but making video myself is not the easiest, and at the crag I prefer to focus on the climbing.

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