Injury vs 9b: 1 – 0

As you might have seen in my previous post, I’ve hurt my knee on a dropknee. It happened one week ahead of my third Spain trip, and as I was feeling fit again, timing couldn’t have been worse. I wanted to see if it would improve, before deciding on going to Spain or not. It did feel better after a few days, and as the swelling was almost gone, I tested what I could do. Some campus and hangboard training was alright, and even some one-foot bouldering was ok, albeit a little scary. The next day I tested routeclimbing using both feet, and although I could climb up to 8b, there were too many limitations. No high feet, no slight knee twists,  and for sure no heel hooks or dropknees. I decided that Spain was not gonna happen.


I’ve had many injuries in the past, so I know the procedure.

  • stop training
  • find out how bad it is
  • get diagnosed
  • visit therapists
  • rehab

I’m happy to live in a country where I can visit specialists and therapists without it costing me a fortune. Shortly after deciding to cancel my trip, an MRI showed that both MCL and ACL (knee ligaments) are partially torn. Both doc and physio told me that hard climbing was out of the question for a while, but that straining the knee (and thus some climbing) would be possible wearing a brace.

What now??

I must say I’m quite frustrated that project-9b has come to a halt for a while. On the other hand, I knew from the start that injuries would be a part of the process. I also realize that the injury could be worse, and that I can actually do quite a lot of training. My main concern goes to healing and strengthening those ligaments, because avoiding dropknees in the future is not an option to me. I decided to take 10 days off, giving my body some rest after a strenuous winter. This will enable me to train through summer and fall, as the plan still is to join some lead worldcups.

As for project-9b, it has become so important to me, there’s no giving up. I also saw how close I actually got, and this gave me a huge motivation. I think ‘Fight or Flight’ will have to wait for Fall or next Spring, since it will get too hot soon. I’ll look for other routes that I can start working on (‘Lapsus’ maybe?), as soon as my knee will let me.

As was correctly commented earlier, not only the good times of the process are interesting, but also the down times. I’ll keep you up to date on the rehab!

One thought on “Injury vs 9b: 1 – 0

  1. Good luck Jorg! This injury is a shame but that’s a part of the sport and, as you say, you are experienced and by now familiar with the rehab process.

    Good on you for setting up this site and blog – it is interesting and well done.


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