Notice on route info

As you might have seen, I removed the info for now on how natural routes are in the section route info.

I originally added this info, since I think the climbing scene should know that a lot of today’s high end routes are not completely natural. It’s important to distinguish between:

  • reinforcing holds/structures with sika so that it’s barely visible/invisible.
  • reinforcing holds/structures with sika so that it’s clearly visible and you actually climb on sika.
  • ‘creating’ holds, e.g. by drilling holds, making new ones with sika, or even adding plastic holds…

I think the state of the art today varies per area/country and it’s hard to say what is right or wrong, and where to draw that line. This alltogether is a different discussion I’d love to see in the climbing scene one day.

The reason why I removed the info on how natural routes are, is that it can be easily misunderstood and discredit the route’s first ascentionist, which I think is not correct. I guess if I want to list that info, it would need more specification and detail.

It’s a tricky case isn’t it?

3 thoughts on “Notice on route info

  1. Love this blog! Looking forward to following you progress (and regress ;-)) on these routes.

    Have at it!

  2. Thanks!
    I’ll keep it coming.
    Hopefully always more progress than regress 😉

  3. first rule of “chipped routes High end Club”: we do not talk about chipped routes on the high end 😉
    Seems like i took this thing way to serious when it comes to my own ethics.

    wish you all the best for a fast recovery from your injury!

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