Training start (throwback)

I started planning the details of project-9b and training for it in Summer 2017, and I was happy that I finally had the courage to say: ‘let’s do this!’, when everything was thrown to the wind with the comeback of an old injury. A ganglion (or cyst or whatever) in my middle finger had reappeared, and the tendon sliding over it as I crimped hurt as hell. I saw my dreams crumble, but activated the patience necessary for curing injuries (it’s not the first time my fingers are bugging me).

Injury begone!

After a late Summer and Fall of trying therapies varying from leeches (yes, those blood sucking thingies) to cottage cheese (sounds funny) to regular physiotherapy, I decided to get rid of it the same way as last time: a shot of cortisone. I did this some years ago, and problems were gone quickly, and stayed away for years. This time the cortisone didn’t have the same effect, and I was bummed to not feel a change at all. After the necessary break (cortisone temporarily weakens your tendons and pulleys) I started climbing again, and alas, over time I felt improvement!

Summa summarum, the little bugger is still there, I can actually feel it sitting below the tendon, but somehow my body has adapted to it, and if I keep the bloodflow going and the fluids drained, I can now (since Jan. 2018) crimp at 90% without pain. Trust me, I rarely crimp at 100% đŸ˜‰

Postpone Project-9b??

Downside to the injury chapter was: my training cycle had been delayed by a month and a half, and during basetraining I could not train crimps like I wanted. I thought about postponing it to next year.

In comes Katha, not only my wife, but also the mastermind behind my training, and with some adaptations and reductions my planning was back up! November 20th 2017 I started phase I with double the motivation, but some doubts in mind whether time would be sufficient, since I had set sending time for March 2018.

Next up: feelings on Phase I

 

3 thoughts on “Training start (throwback)

  1. Thanks for this project and blog! Besides the cortisone injections, have you found any particular mobility exercises or other treatments effective for dealing with your fingers? While not exactly the same issue (I think), I’ve dealt with swollen, achy distal joints on both middle and ring fingers in both hands for a couple years. Similarly to a cyst, inflammation and friction against the tendon seem to be chronic issues. Any thoughts appreciated, and best of luck with yours!

  2. Hi Dan, what made a difference for me was stretching after training (long and steady), some antagonist exercises with finger stretch bands, and accupressure rings.
    Of course all finger injuries have different causes, and are treated differently, but my problems are often shortened finger muscles and fluid build-up in my fingers after minor problems. A proper warm up is key too!

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