Phase I: Basetraining

Key points:
  • Getting my body (fingers!) accustomed to training
  • gaining volume to be able train more in the next phases
  • grip strength
  • building muscles

4 weeks


2 days on 1 days off, so on average 4.5 sessions/week

  • Day 1:
    • bouldering (45 min)
    • short circuits (60 min)
    • power exercises: core (30 min)
  • Day 2:
    • bouldering (90 min):
    • power exercises:
      • maximum hangs (20 min)
      • campus static (20 min)
  • Rest
  • Day 1:
    • bouldering (45 min)
    • short circuits (60 min)
    • power exercises: core(30 min)
  • Day 2:
    • 2 project routes (45 min)
    • 5 70% routes (120 min)
  • Rest
  • Repeat cycle
single exercises explained:

Bouldering: Seems obvious. Ideally practised on a freestyle bouldering wall with 20° to 50° angles. Try to put focus on weaknesses, set boulders according to your training goal, try to switch styles. Boulder with other people (ideally of similar strength), for you will struggle much more on their boulders than on your own. Take enough rest (do NOT get pumped).

Short circuits: The goal is to develop specific grip strength. Circuits of ~10 moves on a 20° - 45° wall with a focus on one type of hold or move (e.g. crimps, pinches, slopers, no foot, underclings). Repeat the circuit 6 times with a double-climbing-time rest (e.g. 40 sec climbing, 80 sec rest, repeat 6 times). Switch circuit after 15 min rest (3 circuits/session; e.g. crimps, pinches, no foot). Aim for circuit to be doable 2-4 times (use powerspot if necessary!) and vary circuits (tweek them) each training.

PE core: Work on both abs and back muscles. There's a large number of exercises to choose from (see videos), all you need is a pull-up bar. Front lever can be made easier by bending one leg (lots of variation possible - see video). Switch between the exercises, taking enough rest in between.

PE maximum hangs: The goal is to increase finger strength. Find a hold you can hang on for 2-10 sec, hang on it until you drop, repeat several times with enough rest. Do blocks of grip styles (crimps, slopers etc) and vary holds. You can use fingerboards like Beastmaker etc., but don't stick to it. If one hand hangs are too hard, start with two hands. DON'T do this when tired, or with an active injury. If it hurts, stop.

PE campus static: A wide variety of campus exercises is at your availability, with the most basic ones the 1-4-7 and the bump again (see Phase II: Power)

Project routes: Routes that you are very close to finish after you've tried them several times already. Take enough rest prior to a project try (20-30 min) and make sure you've warmed up properly. I you fall (even early on), take a bit of rest, but continue to the top instead of lowering. The availability of these routes of course depends on your facility but you can help out as well and set your own projects. It's also possible to find rock projects, but it helps if they're in a similar style as the goal you're training for.

70% routes: Routes that you can still (or almost) climb after you've done some project tries. The 70% are based on your fresh fitness level, so after 5 routes, they will feel like 100%. You can gradually lower the level of routes as you get more tired towards the end, but it's also a good exercise to keep the same level for all routes.