Phase II: Power

Key points:
  • Fingers strength
  • Increase maximum power
  • Increase explosive power

4 weeks

  • Day 1:
    • bouldering (60 min)
    • 1-move boulders (45 min)
    • Power exercises dynamic (60 min)
  • Day 2:
    • Max project routes (90 min)
    • Power exercises static (60 min)
  • Rest
  • Day 1:
    • bouldering (90 min)
    • Power exercises dynamic (60 min)
  • Day 2:
    • Project routes (60 min)
    • 70 % routes (120 min)
  • Rest
  • Repeat cycle
single exercises explained:

Bouldering: Seems obvious. Ideally practised on a freestyle bouldering wall with 20° to 50° angles. Try to put focus on weaknesses, set boulders according to your training goal, try to switch styles. Boulder with other people (ideally of similar strength), for you will struggle much more on their boulders than on your own. Take enough rest (do NOT get pumped).

1-move boulders: Practise those moves that you couldn't do during the previous bouldering sessions, or set specific move you want to train on. Don't worry if it takes longer than 5 tries, or you can't do them at all. If you cán do them, try the entire boulder (or build a boulder around it). Needless to say, enough rest is key here.

Max project routes: Work on routes on which (at first) you can't do more than 5-10 moves in a row. Take enough rest (hanging in the the rope) to not get pumped. Try to increase the amount of moves you can do in a row. the goal is that eventually these route become project routes.

Project routes: Routes that you are very close to finish after you've tried them several times already. Take enough rest prior to a project try (20-30 min) and make sure you've warmed up properly. I you fall (even early on), take a bit of rest, but continue to the top instead of lowering. The availability of these routes of course depends on your facility but you can help out as well and set your own projects. It's also possible to find rock projects, but it helps if they're in a similar style as the goal you're training for.

70% routes: Routes that you can still (or almost) climb after you've done some project tries. The 70% are based on your fresh fitness level, so after 5 routes, they will feel like 100%. You can gradually lower the level of routes as you get more tired towards the end, but it's also a good exercise to keep the same level for all routes.

Power exercises dynamic:

  • Campus 1-4-7: The classic. the focus is on the second move, do both hands. Instead of aiming for rug 7 or 8, you can also tap as high as you can. Use a powerspot if you're not quick enough.
  • Campus double dynos: Good for coordination and explosive power. It's possible to stop in between moves, or keep on going. Watch out for nasty back flips.
  • Campus 4-1-6: Start with one hand at rug 4 and the other at 1. Drop down the higher hand to 1 (elbow angle at 90°), and as FAST as you can, move up to 6 (or tap somewhere).
  • one arm pull-ups: With the use of a hipswing, try to do quick and single-move one armers on a jug or pull-up bar. If you're not quick enough, or not strong enough, use a powerspot.
  • Jump to holds: From a backwards distance, jump to a set of holds you can barely hold on to, catch and hold the body swing, control, and make a move upwards. Works well on double shoulders, big volumes, slopers. Less nice on crimps...
  • Flight simulation: A series of no-foot moves, while alternating between static and dynamic moves. Hard to set, but a brilliant exercise to improve coordination, modern comp skills and explosive power. Powerspot when necessary.

Power exercises static:

  • Campus 1-4-7: Same as for its dynamic pendant, but this time try to lock off instead of going dynamically.
  • Campus bump again: Start both hands at rug 1, bump one hand to rug 2, 3, 4 etc as high as you can. Dynamising a bit is ok. Some people can do this until both arms are stretched!
  • One arm pull-ups: From a straight arm all the way till the chin is above the bar. My nightmare. Easy for some. Hold the bar with the back of your hand facing towards you! Vary by using climbing holds, campus rugs etc.
  • No foot bouldering: Nice if you're shoes hurt. Try to use bad holds as well instead of jugs only. Possible on existing boulders without using your feet as well. Vary with small and big moves. Important is to always keep a slightly bended arm (no shoulder dead hanging). Try to figure out how to use hips and feet in the air.
  • Core: Work on both abs and back muscles. There's a large number of exercises to choose from. Front lever can be made easier by bending one leg (lots of variation possible - see video). Switch between exercises.
  • Maximum hangs: Find a hold you can hang on for 2-10 sec, hang on it until you drop, repeat several times with enough rest. Do blocks of grip styles (crimps, slopers etc) and vary holds. You can use fingerboards like Beastmaker etc., but don't stick to it. If one hand hangs are too hard, start with two hands. DON'T do this when tired, or with an active injury. If it hurts, stop.