Phase III: Power endurance

Key points:
  • Endurance (my goal is 40 moves of power endurance)
  • Ability to recover on moderate rests.
  • Ability to do more than 2 proper project tries/day
Duration:

3 weeks (ideally 4)

Weekplanning
  • Monday:
    • bouldering
    • power exercises
  • Tuesday:
    • project routes
    • 70% routes
  • Wednesday: rest
  • Thursday:
    • bouldering
    • 10-20 move boulders
  • Friday:
    • project (hard)
    • 70% routes
  • Saturday:
    • project routes (>30 moves)
    • route intervals
  • Sunday: rest
 single exercises explained:

Bouldering: Seems obvious. Ideally practised on a freestyle bouldering wall with 20° to 50° angles. Try to put focus on weaknesses, set boulders according to your training goal, try to switch styles. Boulder with other people (ideally of similar strength), for you will struggle much more on their boulders than on your own. Take enough rest (do NOT get pumped).

PE varied: A variety of power exercises that you feel you need to improve on, both static and dynamic. (For a range of PE's see Phase II: Power)

Project routes: Routes that you are very close to finish after you've tried them several times already. Take enough rest prior to a project try (20-30 min) and make sure you've warmed up properly. I you fall (even early on), take a bit of rest, but continue to the top instead of lowering. The availability of these routes of course depends on your facility but you can help out as well and set your own projects. It's also possible to find rock projects, but it helps if they're in a similar style as the goal you're training for.

10-20 move boulders: This is key to get short power endurance, and is also possible on routes (similar to max project). Try not to make only traversing moves (like in the video), but go up and down instead. Define feet/use only screw ons/use all feet for variation. Think out of the box and create some interesting moves. By making a 10-move boulder, adding a 5-move start and having a 5-move loop somewhere in the middle, you've create 4 boulders (10-, 15-, 15-, 20-moves). 3 tries/boulder with enough rest.

Route intervals: Set up a toprope and climb 50-60 sec, followed by a double-climbing-time-rest. Try to do at least 8 repeats until you throw up 🙂
Vary routes, so that you're always close to falling off (or falling off) at the end of the minute. If you don't have several route on one line, tweek the route by eliminating holds, feet etc. As a variation you can rest on a jug instead of resting on the ground. Keep to the timing, and try to give 100%!