Some alround training tips:
- Never lose sight of the goal: You’re training for a reason, right? Whether it’s plain fun, to look ripped, or to climb like Adam Ondra, the goal is always key for training. Think on what is necessary to achieve your goal, and adapt your training to it. Speak to others that you think competent, and ask them for their opinion, tips, evaluation of your climbing etc. In other words, get smart on training!
- Know yourself (aka listen to your body): If you can’t handle six training session a week, why do so? Try to gradually build up to it instead. If everything is screaming for a restday, don’t get tempted because your buddy sais ‘come on!’. You’ll have to find out which and how much training suits you. Don’t just copy past from others, try it, and see if it works on you. One man’s weakness is another man’s strength. So know yours both.
- Take restdays seriously! The key to a training effectively is to rest enough. That means restdays are ás important as the training days. If you have time and energy to climb 4 – 5 times a week, try to get a fix cycle of training-/restdays. 2-1-2-1 etc or 2-1-3-1 are very effective cylces, that help you recover well enough before your next training.
- Rest after training: Also on training days a certain amount of rest in necessary. A good guideline for resting after training is: training hours = rest hours. Studying or working are of course a climbing break, but are not the same as true chilltime. Now I know not everyone is a pro-sportsman and has time to spare, but if possible try to wiggle in that post training hour of sipping coffee or watching tv.
- Train in comfortable climbing shoes: A lot of training means a lot of shoetime, so leave those 4-sizes-too-small Solutions at home, and save them for a good project burn. I have had some issues with enflamed heel bursae, which was only caused by wearing (and walking around between boulders) on small climbing shoes.
Some words on injury prevention:
- Warm up properly: I know this sounds cliché, but how many people jump straight to the project after doing 5 pullups and some jumping around? A complete warmup cycle takes at least 30 minutes (some competition climbers warm up for two hours!!) and involves some cardio, stretching and progressive climbing. I’m not saying I practise what I preach, but I take at least 20 minutes, and I always start on full jugs, progressively climbing harder. Route example: 6c, 7b, 8a, project.
- If it hurts, stop! Sounds logical, but ignoring pain is one of the biggest reason for injuries. Now of course you can’t just stop your training everytime your big toe hurts, but practising common sense when it comes to pain can save you big time.
- Timing of power exercises: Before you start your training session, think what you want to do and how long it’s going to take. Categorise your training exercises in low and high risk for injuries, and do the latter after a proper warm up, or before midway. Fingerboarding after three hours of bouldering is not a great idea.
Some words on cardio:
Some words on warming up: